Plants For Containers

Since very early times gardeners have had the idea of growing plants in containers. The practice may have begun as a way of nurturing treasured rarities or plants charged with a special religious or mystical Significance. Old frescoes and paintings give ample evidence, though, that the decorative value of container grown plants has been appreciated for a very long time.

Much in container gardening has remained unchanged over many centuries. We still grow plants that were loved by gardeners hundreds of years ago and containers of traditional designs and materials continue to be widely used. There have been changes, however, particularly with the extraordinary expansion of gardening as a leisure activity over the last 5O years. New materials, such as fibreglass and plastics, have been used in the manufacture of a greatly increased range of containers. The hanging basket already known to the Victorians, has come into its own. Furthermore, the transformation of the retail trade means that it is easy to buy all the supplies needed for the container garden - from the pots and hanging baskets to plants suitable for growing in them - at garden centres and other outlets.

Colourful half-hardy plants give a long summer display and do well in all kinds of containers. The hanging basket contains petunias, Lobelia, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums and a grey-leaved foliage plant which cools the hotter tones. In the window boxes are Petunias and Lobelia.

Roses are an important group of shrubs that has been developed by plant breeders. There are so many cultivars that roses are generally treated as a category of ornamentals on their own.

Herbaceous perennials are generally thought of as long-term plants for the open garden. However, many adapt well to life in containers, including good foliage and flowering plants. More tender ones, such as begonias, can be grown as annuals but can be kept through the winter if pro­tected from frost, such as in a greenhouse.

Bulbs (the term is here used loosely to include corms and tubers) are a special group of perennials that deserve separate treatment. They are indispensable for spring and include many star performers for other seasons.

Three main groups of short-lived ornamentals are the mainstay of many container gardens. The first are biennials, plants that flower and then die the year after they have been sown. Wallflowers (Cheiranthus cheiri),which are representative of this group, are generally bought as plants in autumn, although the gardener can sow his own seeds in summer for flowers the following spring. Annuals, plants that complete their life cycle in a season, fall into two categories. Hardy annuals, such as cosmos and pot marigolds (Calendula) are easily grown from seed sown in spring. Half-hardy annuals, like French marigolds (Tagetes), are best started in heat in spring and many gardeners prefer to buy commercially raised stock of these.

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Diseases - Take Care of Your House Plants From Various Troubles (Part 2)

Deformed growth

The plants grow lopsided in the pots and the stately little indoor three forms a crick in its stem. Set this right by regularly tuning the plant, remembering it will turn naturally towards the light source, although it must be said that some plants, namely Azalea, Camellia, Clivia, and Hibiscus, will not tolerate this at all. Leaf and phyllo cacti are also very sensitive when the flower buds are developing, and if these plants are turned, their buds will fall off. So let the plants stay exactly where they are and if they do start to grow crooked, support them with a stick.

Root-rot

Roots will rot if the compost in which they grow becomes waterlogged. Improper watering and/or bad drainage can cause stagnation. The soggy roots will then turn dark brown or even black. The plant's new shoots droop, die off and the entire plants wilt. Severe root-rot is usually fatal but sometimes an infected plant can be saved by removing it from the pot, cleaning all soil from the roots, washing them in warm water, and then repotting the plants in fresh compost. Water very sparingly for a while, until signs of recovery to normal growth are clearly apparent.

Mildew

A fungus disease that can be particularly harmful to plants during the summer which shows itself in the form of a white, powdery mould on leaves. The infection occurs if plants are placed too close together and suffer from lack of air and light, but get too much moisture. The mould can be carefully rubbed of or affected plants can be pruned back, but if the mildew is particularly persistent, the plants should be sprayed with a fungicide. When spraying, do not overlook the undersides of the leaves, but on no account allow the fungicide to touch any flowers.

Green sickness

Deficiency disease, better known as green sickness or chlorosis, is caused because the plant is suffering from a lack of one or more of the essential nourishing elements. The leaves take up insufficient chlorophyll and become light green, yellow, and sometimes bleached in color. Feeding needs to be correctly adjusted if the plant is to survive.

Frost danger

Plants standing on the windowsill need to be protected with newspaper during the night when frost is about, especially in rooms where a stove is burning. During a period of sharp frost it is best to remove all plants from the windowsill before you close the curtains, though this is not necessary if your plants are situated above a radiator. Plants standing in an unheated room should not be watered during frost period, since a wet soil-ball will freeze much sooner than a dry one. If you have to be away for a few days, the plants can be wrapped in an insulating material, such as and old blanket, corrugated cardboard or newspaper and then placed on the floor in the warmest room in the house as far as possible from the window.

How you can tell when a plant has been affected by frost?. Leaves and stem become translucent and limp, and also change color from green to dull grey. It is sometimes possible to save a plant by moving it to a dark, cool room and then spraying it thoroughly with cold water. It needs to thaw out very slowly, and if you transfer a frost-bitten plant immediately to a warm room it will have no chance of survival. If a few days after having given it a cold shower there are still no signs of improvement, repeat the process once or twice. Should the plant perk up again, you can begin to adjust it very gradually to a higher temperature.

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